As winter sets in across Australia, many pet owners start thinking about how to keep their furry friends warm. But for reptile keepers, the change in season brings its own unique set of challenges. Reptiles—whether they’re bearded dragons, blue-tongue lizards, pythons, or turtles—are ectothermic (cold-blooded), meaning they depend entirely on external heat sources to regulate their body temperature. With temperatures dropping and daylight hours shortening, it becomes critical to adapt husbandry routines to ensure your reptile stays healthy and comfortable during the colder months.
Why Winter Matters for Reptiles
In the wild, Australian reptiles naturally slow down during winter. Some go into a state of brumation—a kind of reptile hibernation—where they become inactive and stop eating for weeks or even months. While this is a natural part of their life cycle, captive reptiles are often kept in environments that don’t exactly mimic the outdoors. This makes winter care even more important. If temperatures in their enclosure drop too low, reptiles may become sluggish, stop eating, or even develop serious health issues like respiratory infections or digestive problems.
Proper heating, lighting, and humidity management are key to keeping your reptile healthy through winter—whether they’re naturally active year-round or they brumate.
Heating: Your First Line of Defence
Australian winters can vary widely—what’s considered “cold” in Brisbane is very different from the chill of a Melbourne or Hobart winter. Regardless of your location, it's essential to monitor enclosure temperatures closely as the mercury drops. Reptiles require a thermal gradient in their enclosure: a basking spot where they can warm up (often 32–38°C depending on the species) and a cooler area (24–27°C) where they can retreat.
Invest in reliable heat sources such as ceramic heat emitters, heat mats, or radiant heat panels. These provide consistent warmth without emitting light—ideal for maintaining nighttime temperatures without disrupting your reptile’s circadian rhythm. Use thermostats and quality thermometers to maintain precise control and avoid overheating or underheating.
UVB and Light Cycles in an Aussie Winter
Reptiles also rely on UVB lighting to synthesise vitamin D3, which helps with calcium absorption and bone health. During winter, days are shorter, and natural sunlight may not provide sufficient UVB—especially for indoor pets. Make sure your UVB bulbs are still effective (most lose potency after 6–12 months) and maintain a 10–12 hour light cycle using a timer.
If your reptile gets time outdoors in warmer months, it might not be possible or safe during winter due to cold temperatures. So, indoor UVB becomes essential. For tropical and desert reptiles, full-spectrum lighting that mimics summer conditions helps prevent stress and health issues.
Humidity: Don’t Let Winter Dry Them Out
In many parts of Australia, winter air is drier, especially when heaters are running indoors. For species like green tree pythons, water dragons, or rainforest geckos, maintaining the correct humidity is crucial. Low humidity can cause dehydration, poor shedding, and respiratory problems.
Combat dry air with daily misting, water bowls placed near heat sources (to create humidity), and humidity-friendly substrates like coconut fibre or sphagnum moss. In extreme cases, a room humidifier or an automated misting system might be necessary to maintain appropriate levels.
Feeding and Digestion in Cooler Months
A reptile’s metabolism slows down in colder temperatures, meaning they digest food more slowly. If their enclosure isn’t warm enough, feeding can actually do more harm than good. Undigested food can rot in the stomach, leading to infections and other serious issues.
Before feeding, always check that basking temperatures are within range and that your reptile will have hours of consistent warmth to digest properly. Some reptiles may reduce their food intake naturally during winter—that’s okay. Monitor weight and behaviour to determine what’s normal for your pet.
Brumation: Know When to Let Them Rest
Brumation is common in many Australian native reptiles, including bearded dragons, eastern blue-tongues, and some pythons. It’s a survival strategy used in the wild during colder months, where reptiles slow down, stop eating, and may sleep for weeks.
In captivity, it’s important to only allow brumation if your reptile is healthy and at a good weight. Seek advice from a reptile-savvy vet before making changes to heat or food routines. If you decide to allow brumation, gradually reduce temperatures and lighting over several weeks, and stop feeding at least 1–2 weeks before full brumation begins to avoid undigested food sitting in the gut.
Brumation is not necessary for all species, and some reptiles—especially tropical ones—should not brumate at all. Monitor your pet closely and never force brumation if it’s not appropriate for the species.
Routine and Observation Are Key
Winter reptile care in Australia isn’t about simply “cranking up the heat”—it’s about mimicking natural seasonal cycles while maintaining a safe, stable environment. Every reptile is different, and understanding your specific species’ needs is vital.
Check enclosures daily for temperature, humidity, and overall cleanliness. Watch for changes in behaviour such as lethargy, lack of appetite, or wheezing, which could signal health problems. Regular weighing is also useful for detecting issues early—especially during brumation or reduced activity.
By making thoughtful adjustments to heating, lighting, humidity, and feeding routines, you’ll ensure your reptile stays healthy and comfortable through the cooler months. Whether your scaly companion is active year-round or prefers a winter nap, proper winter care is a crucial part of responsible reptile ownership.
Remember: just because they're cold-blooded doesn’t mean they should be cold.
If in doubt speak to the Pet Experts at your local Just For Pets Independent pet store
